Solenoid valves in refrigerators control water flow — to the ice maker, water dispenser, and in some models, between compartments. A solenoid valve fault means the valve has failed to open, failed to close, or cannot be electrically actuated.
What Triggers This Error?
The board commands the solenoid to energize (open) or de-energize (close). A fault is detected when the expected outcome — water flow starting or stopping — does not occur, or when the solenoid circuit draws incorrect current.
Common Sources
- Failed solenoid coil: The electromagnetic coil that actuates the valve plunger burns out, usually from voltage spikes or age.
- Stuck valve plunger: Mineral deposits from hard water cause the plunger to seize in the open or closed position.
- Low water pressure: Insufficient inlet water pressure prevents a normally-open solenoid from lifting its plunger against the spring.
- Wiring fault: An open or short circuit in the wiring to the solenoid mimics a coil failure.
- Control board driver failure: The board’s transistor or relay driving the solenoid circuit fails.
Solutions
- Test the solenoid coil resistance: A healthy coil typically reads 200–500Ω. An open circuit (OL) or near-zero reading indicates a failed coil.
- Check water supply pressure: Minimum pressure of 20 PSI is typically required. Test at the inlet valve with the supply on.
- Flush the valve: In hard water areas, briefly running water backwards through the valve can dislodge mineral scale.
- Replace the inlet valve assembly: Water inlet valves are inexpensive and commonly available. Most are secured by two screws and a single harness plug — a straightforward DIY repair.
- Replace if the plunger is stuck: A mechanically seized valve cannot be reliably freed and should be replaced.